Tuesday, May 22, 2007

Yafo and other places, 27.04.07

We were originally supposed to go to Tel Aviv that day, but Lyonya and Mira really don't want to. They have given different reasons for their reluctance every day. (I am curious to know what their real reason was, but at this point I am not likely to believe them even if they tell me.) In any case, they are our hosts and we can't pressure them too much, and besides we have a day in Tel Aviv by ourselves in the end of the trip...

They agree to go to Yafo, though. Considering that Yafo is the same city as Tel Aviv (the official name is Tel Aviv-Yafo) we assume that we'd get to visit Tel Aviv on the same trip for a little while, but they say that it is very far away and there is nowhere to park. OK, whatever...

First they want to show us some nice places around Jerusalem. We start in the morning and go to visit the zoophiles.

The so-called zoophiles live on a green mountain and make goat cheese. I am not quite sure why Lyonya calls them zoophiles - maybe because there is nothing else to do there? In any case the zoophiles have cute goats, a cute dog, and really good cheese. We buy some and go away. I should remember to visit the zoophiles the next time I am there.

The next place is a hill with abandonned Byzantine mosaics and a humongous cactus. The hill is unimpressive and dusty and it is hot and blah.

Yafo is an very pretty ancient town. It looks somewhat deserted, though. There are restaurants in the harbor, but only one is open. We go there and get a perfectly decent fish platter.

Either the proper tourist season has not started yet, or the locals are having a major siesta, or something. It is hot.

We walk all over the almost-empty town, enjoy the views of Yafo and the sea, and Tel Aviv turns out not to be all that far away. Lyonya tells us that we can come here to Yafo again when we are in Tel Aviv, instead of spending time there, which makes me wonder again why he doesn't want us to go to Tel Aviv.

The notable local views include a tree in a hanging egg (don't ask me what that means, but looks cute) and the dumbest ice cream vendor in the world:

Me: Two small cups, one scoop of coffee ice cream each, please.
Him: Here you go. (gives me one cup)
Me: And another one like that, please.
Him: (Grabs the cup from me and tries to put another scoop in.)
Me: No, I don't want two scoops in one cup, I want two cups with one scoop each.
Him (looking astonished): Why?
Me: One for me and one for my father.

He gave me the second cup but looked like the idea of a person buying ice cream for someone who is waiting outside was completely new to him and he wasn't sure he approved of such a weird modern invention.

We get back to Jerusalem, and go to Jan's cafe. I sincerely recommend the place, and especially its list of creamy drinks. All of them.

It also has a hot cinnamonny drink called ainar. I am still planning to make some of that at home. It's sort of like glögi but way better.

We get back, and Benka decides to try to read the Koran before going to sleep. She threatens to wake up in a hijab and with a full beard. 15 seconds later horrible snoring is heard from their bedroom.

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